Thursday 29 August 2013

Day 4, 73km:

Today we cycled up the hot dusty Xi'an valley some more. There were lots of road
 works on this bit. This meant lots of trucks on unsurfaced road kicking up dust.
 Chris used a surgical mask he stole from the NHS.  After lunch we turned off
 the hideous valley road at Baoji and headed up a mountain road with a pretty
 river running alongside which was popular with Chinese tourists to swim and
 float in rubber rings. The mountain rd was also very popular with cyclists
 despite being busy with traffic and we saw lots of day trippers.
 We stayed at a little hotel that included a huge plate of dumplings
 each in the room price. Awsome. (by Amy)

Monday 26 August 2013

Day 3 (by Chris)


Day 3, 80km:
This morning we were spotted by a police car. Two police personnel and a solider jumped out and firmly gestured for me to pull over. I surrendered myself, ready to have my tent and stove confiscated and be thrown into a Chinese prison after only 2 days (Secretly, I was thinking we could at least make it to day 10 before this happened). Luckily they insisted we go back down the huge mountain the we'd cycled up as 'foreigners were forbidden on this mountain'. Amy didn't think this as 'lucky' as I did, after being made to sweat and struggle up the mighty big hill for the last two days. She cried when she was informed of our fate so the Chinese police gave her a hug. We still had to go back.

Friday 23 August 2013

Day 2, 82km: by Amy


We had a morning of busy dusty valley road before turning off onto a lovely country road. Unfortunately after a couple of hrs it merged with a road used heavily by truckers as a cut through the mountains. We climbed for the afternoon to the deafening rumble and honking of trucks as they overtook  us waving enthusiastically. Chris chewed up loo roll and used it as ear plugs. We managed to find a little campsite on an old section of unused ( now overgrown) road out of sight from the new road and settled down for the night.











Wednesday 21 August 2013

Day One


So, we have eaten lots of chow mein, now bring on the pain


 


72km of hot, dusty, busy, noisy heinous cycling down a straight main 
road. lunch was spent sat on used sanitary towels amongst half-dead soot
 covered roadside plants and the ice-cream i bought to cheer myself up 
was pea flavoured. Today was categorically the most unpleasant days 
cycling in living memory. Who's stupid idea was it to cycle through 
China, I was left thinking at the end of the ordeal.  ( by Chris)
 

Tuesday 20 August 2013

Beijing to Xi'an in pictures

Some of the appealing dishes offered in the land of China...

Some of the appealing dishes offered in the land of China...
Some of the appealing dishes offered in the land of China...

We are tourists for a week...

Lama temple

The queue for Mao. Wow. This was the worlds longest queue... 
 And I have only photographed a fifth of it! 
Defending your position in the Chinese queue was a brutal affair. 
After the nicely-nicely British approach resulted in me falling far behind Amy,
I had to be more assertive as she was swept away. 
Kids were hurt and a granny was pushed to the floor. 
If it wasn't for the hundreds of 'queue police' (the ones in blue) 
there is no way we would have ever made it to the front.


For our friend Ed.
It was an amazing building, one of the biggest in the world!(Amy wasn't so impressed though, it was the end of the day, she was hot and hungry and I was luck to get away with this impromptu visit thanks to a massive outdoor air conditioner nearby)


Waiting for our bus to xi'an.

Our sleeper coach.

Where the bicycles were re-born.

On the city walls of Xi'an


Monday 19 August 2013

Bejing to Xi' an

We're in Xi'an now. The bus went fine. We had to pay excess baggage but that was expected. It was a sleeper bus so we had a top bunk each! 

Despite being told it would get in at midnight it stopped in a services for 4hrs overnight and we got in at 11 am the next day! 
 
We've constructed the bikes and cycled into town which went well- so easy compared to transporting our stuff with the bikes in boxes! Although we gathered a crowd at the bus station they didn't touch anything so it was fine. 

Tuesday 13 August 2013

Chris' Top 10 tips for anyone thinking of enjoying themselves on the trans-Siberian railway:

Tip 1.   Take a spray bottle of window cleaner, a shammy and a marigold glove. This is so you can clean the outside of your train window thoroughly before your adventure, should you wish to see anything of the world outside.

Tip 2.   Providing your manage to clean your window, by day three you will become suspicious that you train is going round in circles. This is because the passing view from the window, of grassy meadows and thickets of silver birch, as beautiful as it is, has not changed. It will resemble the repetitive scrolling background of a cartoon chase sequence. Do not become anxious, this is normal. Bring a good book.

Tip 3.   Prior to your relaxing 7 day journey across Siberia, Mongolia and China, invest significant pre-holiday time strengthening the quadriceps. I suggest 20 squats morning and evening for 3 months. This is because anyone with the remotest sense of personal hygiene is not going to want their thighs ever touching the the toilet seat at the back of the carriage. Especially considering you will not be able to shower during your trip, and good strength will be needed to overcome the swaying and jolting of the train.

Tip 4.   Any previous 'time inside' will be of benefit in your preparation for the trans-Siberian, which is much like being in prison. You are confined to a cell most of the time, with just 20 minutes exersise allowance every 3 hours when you stop in a station. This is also an opportunity to smuggle luxury food items and alcohol on board, to break up a diet of super noodles for dinner and gruel for breakfast. There are no cooking facilities on board and no drinking water - just boiling water issued directly from a tiny unpredictable tap as the train lurches around all directions.

Tip 5.   Pack a comprehensive burns first aid kit.

Tip 6.   If, like many, you plan on cycling 4000 miles upon completion of your trans Siberian experience and are taking your bicycle and trailer along for the ride, exchange your ticket immediately with one issued by British airways directly to Beijing. Any talk of a 'luggage carriage' to store ones bulky bicycle is pure fabrication and you will end up sleeping with it, leaving you just a sliver space just 16 inches wide.

Tip 7.   Each carriage is governed by an angry little person called a 'Pravinitza' This individual is in charge and controls what you can and can't do. During your time on the trans-Siberian, they are your God. Don't keep calling them the 'barmitza' as I kept doing.

Tip 8.   When you stop at the border and are told that you will be there for several hours, don't think that this would be a good time to go for a 6km walk and climb a nearby hill without telling your anxious wife you are going. Her expression will be very stern upon your return and you will be held in disfavour for several hours.

Tip 9.   Bring toilet paper. It's that or use your hands.

Tip 10.   This is the MOST important tip. Unless you are on the first carriage, NEVER EVER stick your head out of the window of the moving train. Not because your head will hit a post, but because the toilets of every carriage empty directly onto the tracks. The wind whips the pop and wee back down the train. Anything exposed on the outside of the carriages behind gets liberally sprayed with fresh excrement. I learnt this the hard way and only after it had happened several times with clear blue skies... I had the sudden and disturbing realisation that those occasional 'brief rain showers' were something very different and I quietly took myself off to the bathroom to scrub my face off . Now you understand the need for the marigold glove in tip 1.

Sunday 11 August 2013

Staying with the Nomads of the Northern Gobi

The bus from Ulaanbaator to the Mandalgovi in the northern Gobi desert. The road was under construction so for now all cars/buses/lorries use this dirt road or just freestyle accross the steppe. This turned what would be a 3 hr journey into an an 8hr epic on a good day.

Unfortunately it had rained the night before and our bus got stuck in a patch of mud. After 3 hrs the driver managed to dig us out. All passengers collected rocks to put under the wheels to give it a bit of purchase and we were away!
Milking the cows; we were not allowed because of the horns!
 



We signed up for a 5 day community tourism project called Ger to Ger. They have arranged with local families to host tourists as a form of second income (as well as herding) we get to stay with local families who feed us and show us a bit of traditional Mongolian culture and how they live. The families also act as guides taking us from family to family each day (either hiking or by camel or horse cart) so we could explore the region. It was very cool and the families were lovely. So friendly and welcoming!

Noble Rock national park. Former home of the T Rex!

Playing a game a bit like marbles with the children. However, the Nomads are a little short of marbles, so resourceful as they are they use sheep ankle bones. Some still had bits of meat attached. Yummy.
 


Noble Rock national park. Former home of the T Rex!


 This was the Ger of the last family we stayed with. The man of the house was in his 70's and had been a ranger and doctor of the region for 36years. He originally used to travel to patients by horseback across the steppe and desert. Respect!

On the way back to the regional town 80km away, our 4X4 broke down. 6 times. This is probably because the driver drove at 40mph over everything in his path. Everyone needs to do this in Mongolia otherwise you never get anywhere. We spent most of the time head butting the roll cage. However, ingenious as they are, our Mongolian driver eventually decided the problem might be a blocked fuel line, so he pulled it off and plugged a two litre beer bottle into the engine - our new fuel tank. 5km later we broke down again and he dismantled and rebuilt the carburetor in the desert. This got us another 2km down the road. Before it died completely he had replaced all the spark plugs, dismantled the fuel pump and inspected the head gasket. Eventually we had to be rescued by his son. Still, his mechanical efforts were highly commendable.

 Camel Portrait (look at those teeth)!

Although Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia isn't the most beautiful city in the world, its central park was second to none. Me and Amy had our lunch sat on an old concrete block. While we ate a mother helped her toddler do a poo on the main path.

Tuesday 6 August 2013

Moscow to Lake Baikal



1.Our first train
2. Our second trainIn Mongolia, this is the legitimate way to get to your train when it is on the other side of the platform.

4. Our coal fired hot water boiler on the Chinese train from Moscow.


   Due to lack of space, Amy had to sleep with Dobbin. I’m not sure who I was more jealous of.

7.     This is a Mongolian Border official handing out declaration forms. This is not a joke. She come to our cabin door with a stern expression, handed us the relevant forms in a serious manor and indicated the fields she required us to complete.

Amy struggling to transport our bikes across Irkutsk shortly before our useless trolley collapsed

Amy reading on the shores of lake Baikal.

A Nurpa! This is the world’s smallest seal in the world’s biggest lake – doesn’t help when you’re trying to get a good photo of it..

Sunsets on the lake.

Sunsets on the lake.