Today our lovely road got steeper passing through grassland with free 
range pigs and eventually turned into a gravel track in forest and 
ascended to 9800ft. I decided very quickly that I hate tracks. It was 
like riding on a stream bed. We stopped for pasta (which i have been 
carrying since Chengdu) 5km from the top when I realised we weren't 
going to make the pass at any reasonable lunch hour. A sign at the top 
said the area was a nature reserve with wild giant pandas and jaguars. 
The veiws were fantastic down the valley. We looked for a camp spot on 
the way down but the land was too steep and the bamboo forest too thick.
 Instead we ended up in a guesthouse where Chris got bitten by bed bugs 
(I used my own sleeping bag) and the toilet was a concrete pit in the 
yard with maggots climbing up the sides.  Nice.
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