We
 took a little road along the lake shore back to New Dali through lots 
of pretty villages. It was full of cyclists on day trips and locals 
drying shrimp in nets on the road.
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New Dali: 
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After
 the city we ascended a pass on a busy new road. Thankfully for the 
downhill we found the old road which we had pretty much to ourselves. We
 stayed in a hotel in a valley town. After the lady at the desk had told
 us we could stay, she realised our British passports didn't fit her 
online form. She rung the boss who said we should go to a different 
hotel. Chris had already carried the bikes upstairs. I showed her our 
temporary residence forms for foreigners and promised to fill one in for
 each of us. The boss drove over on his moped to look at the forms and 
was satisfied that this was OK . The lady from the desk sneaked up to 
our room  to ask us not to mention to the boss that the bikes were in 
there.
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Sadly, throwing rubbish into rivers seems to be the legitimate way the Chinese deal with their waste: 
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